Ultimate Guide to the Snowdonia Slate Trail

RAW Adventures - Ultimate Guide to the Snowdonia Slate Trail

The Snowdonia Slate Trail is an 83-mile (134 km) circular trail that winds its way through spectacular Eryri (Snowdonia). While many people know Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and some will have walked the Llanberis Path, Pyg Track and maybe even Crib Goch to reach its summit, relatively few have explored the wider Eryri region.

Designed to showcase some of the lesser-known beauty spots tucked away in the hidden corners of our gorgeous National Park, the Snowdonia Slate Trail takes in mountains, forests, rivers, valleys and seas. Though the landscape constantly changes, one thing remains the same. Everywhere the trail leads, you will find slate.

Once world-renowned for slate production, Eryri was the epicentre of a national industry that supplied businesses around the planet. Welsh slate was quarried, loaded aboard the narrow gauge railways and run to the coast’s bustling docks, where it was shipped to far-flung destinations. This left its mark on the landscape, the people and their culture. So much so that the slate landscape of Northwest Wales was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021.

Snowdonia Slate Trail highlights

Before we go into a bit more detail on the Slate Trail’s history, as well as the practicalities of walking or running the trail, we thought it a good idea to whet the appetite by pointing out some of the trail highlights.

Penrhyn Castle – An imposing Norman castle built atop a fortified manor house in Bangor. Penrhyn Castle is spectacular but boasts a dark history, having been constructed using profits from the slave trade.

River Conwy – Flowing from the Migneint moor to Conwy Bay, the River Conwy features several picturesque spots, including Conwy Falls and the Fairy Glen.

Betws-y-Coed – One of the most beloved towns in Eryri, Betws-y-Coed is known as the “Gateway to Snowdonia.” Pretty and packed full of adventure, it is a vibrant town with plenty to see and do.

Ogwen Valley – With the Glyderau range on one side and the Carneddau on the other, Ogwen Valley takes the breath away with its dramatic beauty.

Quarries at Bethesda, Llanberis and Blaenau Ffestiniog – However you feel about the way humans leave our mark on the landscape, there is no doubt that the mega quarries on the outskirts of these three towns are truly staggering.

Views across Yr Wyddfa – At the heart of the Snowdonia Slate Trail is the country’s largest peak. While the trail offers fantastic views of the mountain, it also comes within easy reach of the trailheads leading to the summit. A cheeky Yr Wyddfa summit, anyone?

Nantlle Valley – People have lived in the Nantlle Valley since at least the Bronze Age. Today, several small Welsh-speaking communities call the valley home and it is famous for the Nantlle Ridge walk and its central role in Welsh folklore.

Beddgelert – Named after a legendary hound, the village of Beddgelert is often regarded as one of Eryri’s most beautiful. It’s also the scene and setting of one of Wales’ most enduring myths.

Afon Cynfal – One of our favourite hidden gems, the Afon Cynfal gorge transports you back in time and allows us to imagine what walking through a Welsh rainforest would have felt like.

The history and culture

You cannot talk about the Snowdonia Slate Trail without mentioning slate and you cannot mention slate without reference to the remarkable impact this remarkable metamorphic rock has had on the people, culture and history of the region.

Slate has been used as a building material for much of human history and the Welsh slate industry goes back at least as far as the Romans (Wikipedia). However, it wasn’t until the mid-18th Century and the onset of the industrial revolution that Eryri became a slate producer of global importance. It was the principal employer in the region and, at their height, the Northwest Welsh quarries produced the majority of UK slate.

However, industrial activity left its mark on the landscape. It also shaped the people and their culture. The Northwest quarries were a hotbed of the Welsh language – novelists, poets, artists and musicians emerged from the quarry culture and the communities living in the region created and inspired many works of art. Just as importantly, the quarries helped unionise local workers and accelerated a nascent Welsh labour movement that would prove enormously influential throughout the 20th Century.

In the pursuit of slate, those who live, work and govern in Eryri had an enormous impact on the local environment. At the same time, slate and the natural environment from which it is extracted had just as influential an effect on the people. The Snowdonia Slate Trail lets you explore this fascinating, two-way relationship, while also enjoying some of the finest landscapes Eryri has to offer.

The Snowdonia Slate Trail by numbers

Let’s get stuck into the details, shall we? A few figures might give you a better idea of what awaits, should you take on the Snowdonia Slate Trail challenge.

Length – 83 miles (134 km)
Elevation – 4,170 metres (13,681 ft)
Expected walking time – 4-8 days
Expected running time – 2-4 days

The Snowdonia Slate Trail route

The Snowdonia Slate Trail is a circular trail that begins in Bangor and ends in Bethesda. Along the way, it visits a range of fascinating locations. These include Betws-y-Coed, Penmachno, Llan Ffestiniog, Beddgelert, Nantlle and Llanberis, amongst others. The official Snowdonia Slate Trail website breaks the route into 13 distinct sections, each of which is approximately 10 km long. As the majority of people walk the route in around five days, we arranged our guide that way.

If you plan on running the route (more on that later) you can either get in touch with the RAW Adventures team or use the Snowdonia Slate Trail website to plan your own adventure. Likewise, if you want to walk the route over four, six or even seven days, give us a shout or head to the Slate Trail website. If you are wondering why you would opt for a guided walk over a self-guided excursion, check out this excellent article on our Climb Snowdon sister site.

Day 1 – Bangor to Llanberis (21.8 km)
The first day sees you depart the seaside town of Bangor and make the 21.8 km journey to Llanberis. Along the way, you will follow the Penrhyn Quarry Railway, walk beside the walls of Penrhyn Castle, pass churches and mills, and stand before the beautiful Carneddau and Glyderau mountains.

Then there is the huge Penrhyn Quarry (once the largest quarry in the world and the site of the longest strike in UK history), Bethesda, the National Slate Museum of Wales and the popular town of Llanberis. There you will find accommodation, great eats and the train that takes you up to the summit of Yr Wyddfa.

Day 2 – Llanberis to Beddgelert (32.2 km)
Day two of our sample itinerary begins in the slender streets of Llanberis, which climb up above the town before joining the trail that takes you past the Parc Glynrhonwy quarries. Along the way, you will pick up the North Wales Pilgrim Way, which runs for 130 miles, from Basingwerk Abbey to Bardsey Island.

Railway enthusiasts will appreciate the Welsh Highland Railway stations that dot the route, while all walkers will delight in the spectacular open moorland of Mynydd Mawr. Striking views of Nantlle Ridge welcome you into the Nantlle Valley, where slate tips and quarries abound. There is a string of traditional villages along route, offering plenty of opportunities to rest and restock. These include Y Fron, Nantlle, Drws y Coed and Rhyd Ddu. The final part of the day’s walk crisscrosses the Welsh Highland Railway line and offers superb views of Yr Wyddfa. The historic village of Beddgelert, its name rooted in Welsh folklore, is the day’s final destination.

Day 3 – Beddgelert to Llan Ffestiniog (23.2 km)
As you depart Beddgelert, there is the opportunity to visit Gelert’s Grave, the supposed resting place of Llewelyn the Great’s faithful hound. After, the trail follows the Afon Glaslyn up to Aberglaslyn Pass, the village of Nantmor and the picturesque hamlet of Croesor.

The stretch between Croesor and Tanygrisiau is marked by abandoned, slate-built homes, labyrinth underground tunnels, and the Llyn Croesor dam. It is wild, gorgeous and some of the best walking to be had in Eryri. Past Tanygrisau, with its famous “River of Slate,” it is up through the woods and on to Cwm Teigl gorge. From there, it’s just a short distance to Llan Ffestiniog. If you are feeling a bit parched, stop at the Pengwern Arms. A fantastic, community-run pub that’s operated as a cooperative, it even boasts B&B and bunkhouse accommodation should you fancy staying the night.

Day 4 – Llan Ffestiniog to Betws-y-Coed (29.9 km)
The penultimate day is one of the toughest but most rewarding. It begins by walking up the Cwm Cynfal gorge, which features a fabulous waterfall at its head. Then it’s the often-boggy trudge through the nevertheless breathtaking Migneint moors and past the ruins of the Cwt y Bugail, Rhiwbach and Rhiw Fachno quarries. Along the way, you will encounter iron age forts, dilapidated workers’ accommodation and ancient Roman roads.

On reaching Penmaachno, the going gets a little easier. The trail takes you along forested roads, past the mystical fairy glen (which you can pay a small fee to enter), across Waterloo Bridge and into Betws-y-Coed. One of the larger towns in Eryri, Betws-y-Coed is home to plenty of restaurants, shops and accommodation options.

Day 5 – Betws-y-Coed to Bethesda (27.1 km)
The final day is upon us. Leaving Betws-y-Coed, you will follow the riverside walk past the popular Swallow Falls and up to the unusual Ugly House. This charming building is home to the Snowdonia Society and there’s a fascinating story behind its origins, so make sure you stop for a cup of tea to find out more. From the Ugly House, head up through the woodland to Capel Curig.

After Capel Curig, the going is fairly flat and there is just 17 km between you and Bethesda. The route takes you around Llyn Ogwen, where Sir Bedivere is thought to have thrown Excalibur after King Arthur’s death, past Tryfan, with its famous Adam and Eve summit, and down the Nant Ffrancon valley. From there, you follow the Lôn Las Ogwen cycle path all the way to Bethesda.

Hiking or running?

While many people enjoy the gentler pace of a five-day walk along the Snowdonia Slate Trail, we know there are also a fair few dedicated souls who love the challenge of running it. To accommodate this, we also organise a three-day, guided trail running challenge along the route.

As keen trail runners ourselves (check out Kate’s fantastic TRAIL article on the Slate Trail if you don’t believe us), we put together a truly excellent three-day itinerary. We think it strikes the perfect balance between runners’ need for speed and their desire for a little time to appreciate the natural beauty of the surroundings.

To learn more about this phenomenal three-day trail running experience, check out our Snowdonia Slate Trail Challenge page.

Where to stay in Eryri

The great thing about the Snowdonia Slate Trail is that you are never too far from some good grub and a warm bed. There are also plenty of campsites to choose from if you don’t mind carrying your tent. The abundance of small villages ensures you don’t have to worry too much about resupplying. Though there are certain stretches where you won’t find any shops or facilities, they are few and far between.

The fact that you can tackle the Snowdonia Slate Challenge in as many or few days as you like means it is difficult to give specific recommendations for accommodation. There are just so many great places to stop! However, if you want a few places to check out, take a look at Climb Snowdon’s Best Places to Stay When Climbing Snowdon guide. It features a host of excellent accommodation options, many of which are on the Snowdonia Slate Trail route.

What next?

If you are interested in walking or running the Snowdonia Slate Trail, RAW Adventures is here to help. While a self-guided circumnavigation of the trail is certainly achievable, we believe guided walks and trail running challenges allow you to get the most from the experience.

Based at the foot of Yr Wyddfa, we know this breathtaking part of the world like the backs of our hands. We live, breathe, walk, run and dream the mountainous landscape that surrounds us. We are also experienced mountain, hiking and trail running leaders. This puts us in the unique position of being able to guide you through the environment in a way that reflects your interests. Want to push yourself and go fast? We are right there with you. Interested in folklore and history? We have spent years immersing ourselves in the stories that connect these landscapes to the communities that live within them. Bit of a nature buff? We know where red kites fly, mountain goats graze and polecats play.

If you are interested in joining us on a one-of-a-kind journey through spectacular Eryri, don’t hesitate to get in touch with the RAW Adventures team and start planning your Snowdonia Slate Trail experience.

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