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3. A Quick Beginner’s Guide to Anchor Systems

Anchor systems are a combination of climbing equipment and techniques that prevent climbers from suffering injury (or worse) should they fall. As such, they are an essential safety mechanism and creating secure anchors is a critical climbing skill.

Typically, anchor systems consist of two or more anchor points connected by climbing equipment to create a mechanism into which climbers clip their rope or themselves. How you create this system often depends on your equipment and experience, as well as the type of climbing you practise.

Anchor system safety basics

When reading or learning about anchor systems, you will probably come across the SERENA acronym. This is also referred to as the SERENEA acronym. Just to confuse things, some people may use EARNEST as well. But they all refer to the same safety techniques. The acronym stands for:

Solid – Every aspect of the anchor must be solid, as should its placement.
Equalised – Distribute the load as equally as possible between anchor points.
Redundant – Redundancy is the idea that if one element fails, safety is not compromised.
Efficient – The anchor system should aim for simplicity and efficiency.
No Extension – Limit the shock load the system experiences if a component fails.
Angle – A larger angle between ropes or webbing means more pressure on your anchor points. Aim for an angle under 90°. 60° is ideal.

Some of these principles may occasionally work against each other. For instance, some redundancy techniques may introduce more friction into the system, which can work against equalisation.

This is normal, though. Rigging the best anchor system possible means managing context-specific risks. Sometimes, you will prioritise equalisation. Other times, efficiency is more important. Creating anchor systems is about problem-solving using these principles. And you get better at it with time, practice and experience.

Types of anchor systems

Broadly speaking, we can divide anchors into three categories:

1. Natural features, such as trees and rock features.
2. Fixed anchors, such as bolts.
3. Removable anchors, such as cams and stoppers.

In most cases, newer climbers will probably utilise fixed anchors. These are the most common type of anchors in sport climbing. Trad climbers may find they use natural features and removable anchors more often.

Sport climbers regularly use quickdraws to create the anchor system. A quickdraw is attached to each of the anchor points and then locked. The bottom carabiners must face opposite directions, so there is no chance of the rope accidentally unclipping. The climbing rope is then passed through the bottom carabiners and they are locked.

Quickdraws are often the simplest and quickest way to create an anchor system. However, they do not always achieve great equalisation.

Fortunately, there are other types of anchor systems you can utilise. These include using runners and slings or combining carabiners and accessory cord to create cordelettes, webolettes or equalettes. Techniques like the sliding x are also valuable.

Climbing with RAW Adventures

Knowing how to create secure anchor systems is crucial to becoming a safe and responsible climber. It’s also something that takes time and practice to perfect. As you acquire experience, you will develop your anchor skills, incorporate new types and techniques, and better understand when to use particular anchor systems.

At RAW Adventures, we equip you with the skills you need to enjoy the beautiful sport of rock climbing safely. Our Rock Skills Courses are the perfect way to develop your skills in a supportive environment and build confidence at the crag. To learn more, contact the RAW Adventures team.